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造り手として目指す日本酒への思いを語る。

"Noto sake brewers talk about their passion for sake"

代表取締役:藤田 美穂

杜氏:横道 俊昭

生まれ育った東京での社会人生活に終止符を打ち、蔵を継ぐために2003年に御祖酒造の代表取締役に就任。就任後試行錯誤し、横道氏と共に新ブランド「遊穂」を立ち上げた。

能登の酒に惚れ込み、能登流の名だたる酒蔵で腕を磨いた後、大阪の酒蔵で杜氏を務めた気鋭の造り手。2005年に御祖酒造の杜氏となり現在に至る。

President of Mioya Brewery since 2003. She became president of the brewery in 2013 by leaving behind a career in Tokyo where she had spent most of her life. Together with Mr. Yokomichi, and through much trial and error, she launched the new sake brand Yuho.

Master brewer of Mioya Brewery since 2005. After falling in love with sake made in Noto, he apprenticed at various renowned breweries with unique Noto brewing methods and then worked as a master brewer in Osaka before joining Mioya Brewery.

Miho Fujita, President

Toshiaki Yokomichi, Master Sake Brewer

藤田:

美味しいお酒を呑むと気持ちも和らいで、知らない方にも声を掛けちゃう。美味しくて、ただただ楽しい。難しい事抜きにして日本酒の魅力はそこにつきると思う。横道さんはなぜ日本酒を造る仕事をしたいと思った?

 

Fujita :

Good sake makes me feel so relaxed that I often find myself starting conversations with other patrons. Sake is simply delicious and fun. Without any nonsense. It always comes down to this. So, what led you to become a sake brewer?

横道:

初めて日本酒を呑んだ時に琴線に触れた。日本酒のどこに?その時は解らなかったけど。そのうち共通して能登杜氏の造る日本酒にだと気がついた。

Yokomichi :

When I tried sake for the first time, I was taken aback. I didn’t quite understand what it was exactly that attracted me to it so much. But I gradually came to understand that it was sake made by Noto brewery masters that was behind the magic.

藤田:

自分が能登杜氏の一員となって、琴線にふれた時と同じ酒は出来た?

Fujita :

Now that you are a Noto brewery master yourself, do you feel you have created the kind of sake that had affected you so deeply then?

横道:

先輩方の酒に追いついたとはとても言えない。でも滋賀で日本酒造りを始めて、大阪の酒造会社では杜氏として日本酒に携わってから御祖酒造に来たのだけど、最初の年の一本目に搾った遊穂純米酒に初めて「あー自分もやっと能登の杜氏になれた。」って思った。

Yokomichi :

I can hardly say I am in the same league with the senior brewery masters here. But when I joined Mioya Brewery, after my early years brewing in Shiga and then working as a brewery master at a sake brewery in Osaka, and then finally first-pressing our Yuho Junmaishu in my first year here, I felt that I had finally become one of them.

藤田:

それはどういうこと?

Fujita :

Can you explain a bit more about that?

横道:

米の旨味、麹の旨味を表現した日本酒ができたかな?と思った。そこに能登の風土、気候や水が醸すものが加わった、という感じ。

Yokomichi :

I felt that way in a sense that I was finally able to make sake that brings out the umami of rice and koji, combined with the climate and water of Noto.

藤田:

能登杜氏になれた!と感じて、御祖酒造の杜氏としてはどんな事を思う?

Fujita :

How do you see sake making as a brewery master of Mioya Brewery and as a full-fledged Noto sake brewery master?

横道:

ここ(御祖酒造のある石川県羽咋市大町)の気候・風土が酒造りに本当に合っていると思うから、その気候・風土を生かした酒造りが本当に楽しい。

Yokomichi :

I feel the climate here (Oh-machi, Hakui City, Ishikawa Prefecture, where Mioya Brewery is located) is perfect for sake making. So, I really enjoy making sake that brings out the best out of the area.

藤田:

それは良かった!造り手が酒造りを楽しまないと、お客様へも御祖酒造の日本酒の楽しさは伝わらないと思う。そこに繋がるのだけど、私達の造る日本酒は、私達が毎晩呑んで楽しいとか、幸せとかを感じることができる日本酒にしようと最初に決めたよね。気候・風土を生かした酒造りをしても、酒の方向性を決める2人が能登出身ではないから、能登らしい日本酒というのが判らなかったという事もあるのだけど。

Fujita :

I am so glad to hear that! I think we can convey the fun that comes with drinking Mioya’s sake only when we can enjoy making it. Speaking of this, do you remember we decided to produce the kind of sake we ourselves enjoy drinking? We did so partly because neither of us is originally from Noto and although we wanted to make sake that best matches the local climate, we had no idea what it was that made sake unique to Noto when deciding on what types of sake we would be making.

横道:

自分たちの好物、豚肉料理とか粉もの(お好み焼き)とか、中華とか。特に自分が御祖酒造の杜氏となって新たに造りだした「遊穂」はそういう料理に合う日本酒がスタートだった。肩肘張る必要もなく、一日の仕事を終えて、寛ぎながら、好物の料理と気軽に楽しめる日本酒。日常の食に寄り添った日本酒を造ろうと。今は自分達も歳をとり、魚や出汁物にも合うようになってきた。常に自分達中心だけど。

Yokomichi :

We talked about the types of food we loved, like pork dishes and savory pancakes (i.e. okonomi-yaki), and created our first brand Yuho with that in mind – to make sake that would go well with those kinds of dishes. We wanted to make sake that can easily accompany daily dining where people come home after a day of work and relax with their favorite dishes and sake. As I get older, the sake I make is also evolving to match better with fish and broth.

藤田:

器用ではないから、自分が美味しい!楽しくなる!という日本酒しかお客様にお勧めする事ができない。自分たちが満足できる日本酒を造り、その日本酒を同じように好きと感じてくれるお客様と触れ合えていけたらいいなと思う。

Fujita :

We are single-minded and can only recommend the kinds of sake that we enjoy drinking. I hope we can continue to make sake that’s truly satisfying and deliver it to customers who have the same kind of passion for our sake.

横道:

でも自分を本当に満足させる日本酒を造る事こそが一番ハードルが高いし、難しい。

Yokomichi :

But, the biggest hurdle lies in making sake we find truly satisfactory.

藤田:

都合よく自分には嘘が付けるから、自分に正直である事はとても大切ですね。ところで横道杜氏の考える理想の日本酒造りとは何でしょうか?

 

Fujita :

It’s so easy to compromise, so it is very important to be true to yourself. By the way, what comes to mind when you think of ideal sake making?

横道:

お米が遊ぶようにお酒になっていく様な、おおらかな酒造りですね。「酵母は裏切らない」から酒造過程で失敗があった時、自分の非を真摯に受け入れられる。人が酒を造るのではなく、人は酵母や微生物の酒造りの手助けをしている。そして、これは搾ってから後だけど、日本酒の醗酵食品としての「熟成」を大切にしたい。

Yokomichi :

To me, it would mean a generous approach to sake making, sort of ‘letting the rice have fun’ in the process of becoming sake. Yeast never betrays. So you can acknowledge your mistake sincerely when something has gone wrong in the process. It’s not us that make sake. We are simply helping yeast and microbes do their job. And, the process of ageing after pressing is important because sake is essentially a fermented product.

藤田:

御祖酒造は生酒も商品としてあり、若さゆえの荒々しい感じも楽しんでもらいたい一方で、火入れの日本酒は一年以上の熟成を経る事で、落ち着いた日本酒の魅力もお届けしたいと思う。熟成の魅力は?

Fujita :

Mioya Brewery has unpasteurized namazake available that’s young, fresh and wild on the palate. But, we want to offer our pasteurized sake that has been aged for a year or more and is full of mildness. What’s the attraction of ageing?

横道:

時を経る事で、日本酒は落ち着いた、丸みを帯びた優しい味わいとなって、純米酒等は燗上がりのする酒になる。日本酒の本領は熟成にあると思う。僕が造る御祖酒造の日本酒は旨味がしっかりとあり、酸もある力強い日本酒だけど、優しさも兼ね備えている。でもそれを一番に感じてもらえるのが熟成だと思う。では聞きますけど、御祖酒造の日本酒をお客様にどうやって呑んでもらいたい?

 

Yokomichi :

As sake ages, it increases in subtlety and mellowness. That’s what makes junmaishu perfect for warming when drinking. I think sake reaches its prime through ageing. The kinds of sake I make at Mioya Brewery are characterized by their rich flavor with dense umami and acidity, accompanied by a touch of gentleness. They become tangible through ageing. Now, let me ask you a question. How do you want people to enjoy Mioya Brewery’s sake?

藤田:

もう好きな様に楽しんで欲しい。呑む温度が判らなければ蔵のお勧めから始めて、でも自分はこの温度の方が好きというのがあってもいい。大吟醸は燗ではダメでしょ?と聞かれる事もあるけど、熟成大吟醸は美味しいし、ひと肌に温めて美味しいと感じる大吟醸もあるわけで。正解もNGも無いのだと思います。でも、御祖酒造の日本酒は好物のお料理、美味しいお料理と一緒に楽しんで頂きたい。

Fujita :

I want people to enjoy our sake however way they like. If they don’t know the right temperature for sake, they can start with the temperature we recommend. But they can of course stick to their favorite temperature. Some people ask whether Daiginjo should be warmed. But aged Daiginjo tastes delicious and there are types of Daiginjo that taste good when warmed. I think there is no right or wrong. But, I want people to enjoy our sake with their favorite tasty dishes.

横道:

そうそう。食べながら気軽に楽しんでもらう。日本酒を楽しみながら食事をする事で人生を豊かにしてもらえたら本望かな。

Yokomichi :

I agree. It makes me so happy to see people enriching their lives with our sake and good food.

藤田:

会社としては前向きな失敗したっていいと思う。お客様にも自分にも正直である限りにおいては。そして「笑顔のある食卓の創造」を御祖酒造の造る日本酒を通して行っていきたいと考えております。

Fujita :

I think, as a company, it’s OK to make positive mistakes, as long as we maintain a sincere attitude toward our customers. And it is our wish to offer ‘happy dining experiences’ through the sake of Mioya Brewery.

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